I'm not a weaver, but I can sew

Because I'm writing the biography of a woman primarily known for her weaving, people often ask if I am a weaver. I am not. I have taken two weaving classes, made a scarf and some placemats, and called it a day. It's not the creative outlet for me, but I'm not saying it never will be. Even Dorothy Liebes started out as a painter, coming to weaving in her early 20s, as a student at U. C. Berkeley. But for now I'm sticking to appreciating the art form and writing about one of its greatest designers.

In the course of my research, I have met many gifted weavers, one of whom is Peggy Osterkamp. Peggy and I presented at the Weaving History Conference last October on Dorothy Liebes's involvement in the Red Cross Arts and Skills Corps and her use of the Structo Loom. Since then we have remained in touch, and this Spring we worked on a unique project together which invoked Liebe's spirit of weaving with just about anything she could lay her hands on.

This is the story, told primarily through our email exchanges.

Italicized text is Peggy talking. My words are in plain text.

March 2, 2025

Hello Peggy- 

I hope it’s time for sandwiches at the studio soon! Do you have any time in the next few weeks? I look forward to catching up!

I’m really busy for a few weeks—spinning paper and weaving it and want to make a vest before our weaving conference mid April. Could you think about the last week of April?? I haven’t got a pattern, haven’t perfected my spinning so worried about carving out time for fun right now. Thanks for understanding,

I totally understand. Is that CNCH you’re preparing for? Let me know when you come up for air or if you need help with anything. I have several vest patterns and could help with sewing  - but I thought you didn’t work with patterns anymore!

Looking forward to whenever I see you again.

Yes, it’s CNCH. Maybe we should get together to look at patterns and threads.  And it might be wonderful if you could sew it, surely advise!! How about  Monday 3/10, or Tuesday or Friday of that week? I can show you what I’ve spun and we could look at patterns. Then I can plan the width of the warp and weave the cloth. I’m spinning the comics pages in the newspapers –maybe for accent  or the whole thing or with pattern paper. The pattern paper is easy and looks nice. I would love to have us think about what to do together. I’ll have some woven samples as well and I have some vest patterns too.

I’m trying to spin enough of the comics pages to make a vest. This is about 100 yards spun—about ½ of what I need.

Tuesday the 11th would be best. I’ve got all day open. 

March 3

Let’s  meet at the studio at noon! Great. And bring vest patterns if you have some and ideas. I’ll want straight seams and perpendicular wefts not much cutting, etc.

March 10

See you tomorrow At noon at my studio. I have lots of questions about making a vest with my paper yarn. We planned to bring our own lunches.

Looking forward to it!

[The funniest thing happened when we met up to brainstorm ideas for the vest. I had spotted a book of Japanese vest patterns on ETSY that had a style on the cover that I thought would work perfectly for Peggy’s vest. When I saw that  the shipping was equal to the cost of the book, I decided against it. But when I arrived at Peggy’s, she pulled out the very same book! She, too, thought the pattern on the cover would be good for her vest and she bought the book (which she gave to me). We were off to a good start in that we shared a vision. I quickly drafted a pattern and cut it out in some muslin I’d brought along. I did a pin fitting on Peggy, and went home to wait for her to finish the spinning and weaving.]

March 14

I put a mock up of the vest in the mail to you today. It’s to check the size, hang etc. let me know how it works. 

March 15

What a surprise when I opened your package!! Went to a special-friend to check it out and the only change would be to the location of the button!! Hooray, Hooray!! We checked the hang all around and the button location fixes everything.

PS THANK YOU.

March 17

We have a pattern that fits and looks good! Hooray!

I’ll be studying the Daryl Lancaster videos to get better at the lining. 

April 8

Are we still on for Monday?

April 9

I think I can make it!! I forget what time. I’m open. The cloth is looking nice—it won’t have much body. I am wondering about interfacing to stabilize it??

Does it make sense for you to come here since I’ll have all the possibilities for machines, notions, interfacing etc at the ready? I am imagining that we’ll be in the thick of it at your studio and I’ll be wishing I had something that was in my studio! 

Just a thought. 

That makes perfect sense. I’m worried that I may have to weave it in two pieces because the cloth may build up too much. On the loom.  I know you are placing both one front and one back together. If you can tell me how long that needs to be I can cut it off and weave hopefully all the rest in one piece. It will be longer since I added extra for experimenting. I plan to weave 150 inches. Tell me the actual amount needed and I will add extra. It will be a close call to have it done on Sunday, but I’ve worked out the hours and I think it can be done. Spinning took longer than I expected.

I have your address. How long should I allow for driving?

Each piece (there are four) is about 23 inches long so 150 inches give us room for one major flub. Which is great. Should be plenty. 

I have Tuesday and Wednesday open next week so don’t stress about Monday if you need to push it out. I’m flexible. It should take about 50 minutes to get here with minimal traffic. Any time works for me. 

I’m so excited!  Also, bring the mockup vest I sent you when you come. 

April 10

I’ll have a little lunch for us so don’t worry about packing anything. Nothing fancy. 

I appreciate that. It’s been a wild time but I see the end—Will cut off a piece 63 “ tomorrow. And have the weekend for the rest. On Monday, I have a Zoom until 11—I’ll be packed and ready to leave then. The weaving is going well. Can’t wait to work together and have you do all the scary stuff!!

I got the cloth woven after much spinning of comic papers for the wefts. 3/2 pearl cotton was the warp. The pattern was one of my experiments in my point twill sampler  (4 shafts).

April 11

I love it!

April 14- CONSTRUCTION DAY! These photos and captions are from Peggy’s blog.

My friend [that's me, Liz]who did the sewing is laying out the pattern. Silverware holds down the pattern replacing pins!!

The first cut! She did take a piece of the extra fabric to stitch a seam and a curve before the actual cutting—just to check how it would stitch up.

Making sure we cut two different backs—not two right sides; but one right and one left.

Interfacing stabilized the cloth and was a good idea.

She took extra pains to be sure every stripe matched for the center back seam. However, the sewing machine had a different idea—but it looks OK.

Stitching the back seam. Now it felt we were really doing it!

Laying out the fronts—again making sure we had a right and a left.

Cutting out the lining

Inserting the lining

Choosing the button. We decided on this one, but I’ve changed my mind. I want to find one that doesn’t stand out so much.

Here is the front! The button not decided yet.

And here is the back. I’m happy with it!!

Back to the emails.

April 17

I am so thrilled and so is everyone who has seen it. All want to touch so I am planning on taking a piece for handling. I would love to have our sample piece so they can see how we put it together. Only if you get back from Reno in time to send it to me. I leave on the 24th. I have plenty of scraps I can machine around so don’t worry if there isn’t time. You can put up on Instagram anytime. I’m busy so it will not be in the next day or so People are giving different opinions on the placement of the button! One person took out the pin someone placed and put in her own!! That person wanted a snap—no button. Will see my women friends to see what the final vote is. I’ll have to check my button box, too.

You are the best! PS I am so relieved!! And happy.

I'm so glad! I have to say, that was as focused as I've been on a sewing project in a LONG time. I didn't want to muck it up. Did you say you're going to be in Sebastopol Monday? I am pretty sure we will be home then, so why don't I plan to come find you wherever you are, and bring the sample, some more buttons, and a big snap?

We both were focused!! Doing my share of taking responsibility! No snap for sure. Today’s group liked the button. Yes, bring buttons. We’ll see what the Monday ladies say.

Thanks, and if it doesn’t work I can live just fine.

I will be there shortly after 11, buttons in hand, ready for voting. And I’ll bring our sampler piece for people to touch. 

April 20

​​I know I said no snap, but I think that or a button and loop inside will be a good idea.

See you tomorrow—Monday.

I’ve got one all ready to go - covered in the black silk satin. 

I’m on my knees to you. Did you see the post I just did on my website?  

New button - it was actually the first one Peggy chose from my stash on construction day!

When I started writing Dorothy Liebes's biography, I had no idea that I would make great new friends along the way, but lucky me!